First off, check out the Used listings on motorcycletrader.co.nz and in the latest issue of the magazine.
Second, buy from a reputable dealership if possible. Private sales may be lower priced, but you will not have any comeback if the bike breaks down or blows up.
Most dealerships offer some type of warranty, or at the very least, will work with you should anything go wrong in the first few months of buying. If you do buy from a private party, insist that you be able to take the bike to a reputable dealership to be assessed and inspected. A few dollars spent now could save you heaps of money and trouble in the future.
In addition, dealerships can do an ownership history search for you to make sure the bike in question wasn’t stolen and hasn’t been listed as “written off” by an insurance company.
Now, if you are looking at buying from a private source, check the bike out for yourself. Take some simple hand tools with you, including a flashlight and, if possible, a multi-meter. Also pays to take along someone who knows a bit about bikes (no, not Uncle Rangi who last rode in 1959!).
Check the condition of the drive chain and sprocket. The chain should have around ¾” of play (up and down) and the teeth of the sprocket should not show obvious damage or wear. Try to wiggle the chain side to side on the sprocket. There shouldn’t be much movement on a good set. Have someone sit down on the motorcycle and check to make sure the chain is somewhat snug, with very little movement up and down. Chains wear out over time, but sprockets should last much longer. A severely worn sprocket indicates either an old sprocket or a poor maintenance schedule.
The tyres should have good tread all the way across the surface with no signs of uneven wear or damage. If the bike’s been used on a daily basis the tyres will often have more wear in the middle on the tread (more highway driving). Others who’ve raced their motorcycle on the track will have rubber that show more wear at the edge of the tread.
Sit on the bike. Look at the condition of the brake and clutch levers, bar-end weights, straightness of the bars and instrument cluster. These could be signs of an accident or drop. Others could be scratched engine cases, foot pegs or exhaust pipes. Hold the handbrake and bounce the front suspension. It should feel even and firm. Get off the bike and check the fork tubes for signs of rust, pitting and oil. These are signs of worn fork seals, or possible future expensive problems.
While checking the forks, run a fingernail across the brake rotors, feeling for uneven wear or grooving. Look into the brake caliper to see how much of the pads are left. If the bike has spokes, check the overall condition of the individual spokes. For all types, look for dents or damage to the rim
If possible, check the visible frame; remove the seat to see underneath it also. There should be no dents, kinks or visible damage to the frame. If there is, run, Forrest, run.
While the seat is off and you can access the battery, clip the multi-meter across the battery terminals and check the voltage. It should read no less than 12 volts. Start the engine. The meter should read no more than 14 volts or so while running. If it does, that may be a sign of a ‘dodgy’ voltage regulator and it may overcharge a battery and cause it to fail. Check the lights and indicators at this stage also. Pull a fuse or two out and check for corrosion. Do this with the engine off of course. Also, check the battery terminals and overall appearance of the battery.
Open the fuel tank and check for obvious signs of rust or corrosion using your flashlight
Take a test drive.
Pick a nice day with dry roads and good visibility if possible. If at a dealer, be prepared to sign an insurance waiver; if privately, be ready to leave something with the seller as security (car, wife, first-born, that sort of thing).
Test the brakes. They should not ‘pulse’. That is a sign of warped disks. They should engage smoothly and evenly and not grab violently or feel spongy.
Accelerate through the gears. The transmission should feel firm and not slip out of gear under acceleration or feel ‘clunky’.
While on a straight, clean patch of road, weave left and right slightly to see how the bike responds. It should feel stable and easy to correct.
Listen for any unusual engine noises, suspension creaking or rattling and any undue vibrations. Ask questions about anything you have doubts about.
3. Inspect the bike again after the ride, looking for any leaks or drips. Check the oil, through either the sight glass or; when the engine cools, the dipstick if so equipped. Most semi or full synthetic oils will darken after only a few miles. That is completely normal.
4. Request a service history. It is always a good thing to have, but for several reasons, they may not be available. Ask for an owner’s manual and factory toolkit if available.
5. Be realistic when negotiating on the final price of the bike. For a private seller, this may be his baby and insulting him now will ensure that you will not get a fair price.
If at a dealership, realise that the salesperson may have targets to meet and a boss looking over his shoulder. Do some research online; use the retail pricing guides if available, or read the bike classifieds to get a fair market value of the bike. Then, set your buy price accordingly.
Even if the seller isn’t interested in your offer, leave your name and telephone number...just in case. If you picked the right seller with the right itch and the right motorcycle at the right time, don’t be surprised if your phone rings later that night and some guy says meekly, “You know, I’ve been thinking it over. You can have it for $1385 and I’ll throw in my moustache wind guard, a pair of leather chaps and Gloria, my inflatable riding companion!”
